A Shopper’s Guide To Compact Fluorescent Lights (CFLs)
Filed under: Earth 911 - December 27, 2007
By Herb Deneberg
Question: As a conservation measure would it make sense to outlaw incandescent lights in favor of compact fluorescents lights (CFLs), which are much more energy efficient, last longer and are lower cost in the long run?
A. I put your question to my expert on electrical safety and lighting, Robert John Bailey, a principal in Tangibl LLC, an electrical consulting firm in Yardley, Pa. Under the new federal energy bill just signed, stores will no longer be able to sell the inefficient incandescent light bulbs that now dominate the market, starting in 2012. So Congress did not outlaw incandescents altogether but only the inefficient ones that are now found on the market. So the industry will have a time period to find technology that will make more efficient incandescents that will be able to stay on the market. Some efficient incandescents are already in the works and close to being on the market.
Mr. Bailey says incandescents are still widely used for commercial and industrial applications as well as consumer applications, and there are often no good alternatives for them, at least at the present time. For example, for floodlights, the incandescent is still king and CFL cannot now completely take its place, although there are some CFLs designed for floodlighting.
He also notes the standard CFL can’t be used in a dimmer. I found that out the hard way by putting a CFL in a dimmer and blowing it out. That forbidden use may also cause a shock hazard. Also, all CFLs can’t be used in any kind of dimmers even if they are three-way rather than progressive ones. There are a few models of CFLs now on the market that can be used with dimmers or three-way switches, according to Consumer Reports (October 2007). Finally, photosensor switches contain dimming circuitry, so one manufacturer, Philips, recommends, “before using such a switch, check with its manufacturer to ensure compatibility with electronic CFL bulbs.”
Mr. Bailey also notes that many CFLs are not designed for base-up application, as in a ceiling fixture. So incandescents may have to be used in this application.
In addition, CFLs are too big for many fixtures that incandescents now fit into.
Some CFLs carry this warning: “Use in recessed cans or enclosed indoor fixtures could result in reduced lamp life.” (”Lamp” in this context is a synonym for bulb and does not refer to the fixture; a “recessed can” is a bulb enclosure of can-like metal with little ventilation.)
Some CFLs should not be used in emergency exit fixtures or lights.
CFLs may cause interference with radios, televisions, telephones or remote controls. This may be corrected by moving the bulb away from the device or moving to another plug.
One other point in the comparison: CFLs contain a small amount of mercury, a neurotoxin, so if they break, there is a dangerous release that requires a special cleanup, and they must be disposed of in accordance with the rules for hazardous products. (See next Q&A for more on this.) It should be noted that conventional fluorescents also contain mercury. The amount of mercury in a CFL is about one percent of the mercury in an old-fashioned thermometer.
CFLs aren’t good for stairs or places where you need full brightness immediately. The ones tested by Consumer Reports took 25 seconds to 3.3 minutes to come to full brightness. So you wouldn’t want them on a staircase where you want instant brightness. An incandescent comes on to full brightness in less than a second.
If used in applications where the light is on for 15 minutes or less (like a closet), that will shorten the life of a CFL.
Finally, Mr. Bailey notes that incandescents come closer to a substitute for daylight, and that’s why many prefer them to CFLs. Many consumers aren’t able to sense any real difference if they select the right color CFL. And, of course, the manufacturers are improving the color and light of CFLs all the time. In fact, there are now CFLs on the market that are especially designed to come close to the kind of “day light” that we are used to from incandescents.
As just noted, manufacturers are constantly working on ways to improve CFLs, and perhaps within a few years they will have good substitutes for the applications for which incandescents are now the only choice or the preferred choice. Of course, during this period, there will be many improvements in incandescents as well. For example, GE is reporting that within a few years it will have an energy-efficient incandescent that will put out twice as much light as the present ones.
2. Q. What are you supposed to do if you drop and break a compact fluorescent light bulb, which contains mercury, a toxic substance?
A. Here are instructions from the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, as related by Consumer Reports (October 2007):
- Open the windows and leave the room for at least 15 minutes.
- For hard floors, don’t vacuum or sweep the mess. Instead, wear disposable rubber gloves and use cardboard or stiff paper to scoop up the debris. Then clean the area with a damp paper towel.
- For rugs, use sticky tape to pickup up any fragments and powder. Then vacuum the area if necessary.
- Place the debris and cleanup materials into a plastic bag and seal it. Put that bag into another plastic bag and seal it.
- If your area allows it and no other disposal or recycling options exist, place in the trash outside. Wash you hands.
- After vacuuming the area for the first time, remove the bag or empty and wipe bin. Put the bag or other debris into a plastic bag and seal it. Then put that bag into another plastic bag and seal it. Place in the trash outside. Wash your hands.
For more information on disposal, go to www.lamprecycle.org or call 800-555-0050. You can also go to www.epa.gov/bulbrecycling to find recyclers. Another source is www.earth911.org.
In my opinion, the EPA should require CFL manufacturers to include clean-up information on the label. The buyer should know what to do when he first buys a bulb and should not have to scramble around the first time he breaks one. Many people would not have the disposable rubber gloves, sticky tape and cardboard, which the EPA recommends for cleanup.
In my view, this is typical of the sloppy and inadequate labeling tolerated by the EPA and other federal agencies and put on the market by so many companies.
3. Q. What are some of the best CFLs if you want to make the transition from incandescents to CFLs?
A. Here are some of the lowest cost bulbs tested by Consumer Reports (October 2007). They are listed in two of the most popular categories:
Table/Floor Spiral. Equivalent to 60-watt soft white incandescent bulb: Bright Effects 60-Watt Replacement 4/Pak 146558 (Lowe’s). Phillips Marathon 60 Energy Saving Bulb 8 pk. 148031 (Costco).
Flush Mounted Spiral Ceiling Light. Equivalent to 60-watt soft white incandescent bulb. N:Vision Mini Spiral Soft White 423-599 14/60 Watt (Home Depot). Felt Electric ECObulb 60 Watt Replacement ESL13T. GE Soft White 60 Watt 8000 Hour Long 41525.
4. Q. Are there any standard-setting organizations that can assure us we’re getting CFLs that will perform as they are supposed to?
A. Look for Energy Star-qualified CFLs. They have to meet standards for brightness, color, bulb life, energy use, start-up and warm-up times. That’s why Consumer Reports recommends only Energy Star bulbs.
For more information on Energy Star see its Web site at energystar.gov.
5. Q. Aren’t CFLs the wave of the future with or without requirements imposed by recent federal legislation?
A. No. Manufacturers, for the very long run, seem to be going for light emitting diodes (LEDs) rather than CFLs as the wave of the future. First, they operate without any toxic elements, unlike CFLs, which contain mercury. Second, they are more compact than CFLs. Finally, they last for about 50,000 hours compared to 6,000 for a CFL and 1,000 for an incandescent. But they have serious disadvantages that await technological advances. First, they are now too expensive for most applications. Second, they are now good for colored lights and are often used for Christmas decorations. However, they are still not available in a form that makes them right for home lighting. Of course, there may be a new form of light bulb developed that will be superior either to the CFL or the LED.
6. Q. With or without the federal law banning inefficient incandescents, won’t CFLs take over the market as they are more economical and energy efficient?
A. You would think so, but the public has been slow to switch to CFLs. The Environmental Protection Agency has been pushing CFLs for almost nine years with its Energy Star program. But CFLs have still taken only 15 percent of the market despite the fact they last much longer than incandescents and are more energy efficient, so they cost less in the long run. The fact that CFLs last longer also eliminates the cost and expense of the frequent changes required by incandescents, a major advantage when the bulb is located in an out of the way location such as a ceiling. CFLs do cost more to buy, but that is more than made up by their longer life and greater energy efficiency.
7. Q. Are there any special precautions to get the most out of bulbs?
A. Mr. Bailey has the following suggestions:
Use them only in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions and the fixture’s requirements. For example, check the wattage requirement of any light fixture to be sure you’re not using a bulb that will be too strong for the fixture in question. For example, a lamp may have the following warning pasted on near the receptacle: “To reduce the risk of fire use a 60-watt bulb or one with a smaller wattage.” Outdoor use may require special bulbs or weather-protected fixtures. Some bulbs also indicate they have to be used within voltage limits.
Make sure any bulb is screwed in snugly, or it may overheat and even stop working. One company puts it this way: “Tighten firmly, but not forcibly.”
Protect bulbs from unnecessary shock and movement. Incandescents are especially susceptible to filament breakage due to shock. CFLs, which don’t have filaments, are more shock-resistant than incandescents but are far from shockproof, so they should always be handled gently. Their weakest spot is the joint between the tube and the electronics of the CFL. EnergyStar.gov offers this advice: “CFLs are made of glass and can break if dropped or roughly handled. Be careful when removing the bulb from its packaging, installing it or replacing it. Always screw and unscrew the lamp by its base (not the glass) and never forcefully twist the CFL into a light socket.” Also keep bulbs away from water.
Be especially careful with the use of halogen lights, as they operate at very high temperatures and represent high fire hazards. If you have one in a lamp, make sure it is shielded with a wire mesh. That protects the bulb from coming in contact with flammables if tipped over. That was a common scenario for fires before manufacturers started shielding the bulbs with a wire mesh on the torchieres.
To minimize energy costs, select bulbs with the lowest output you need and then select the ones with the lowest watts. Light output is stated on the packaging in lumens. Energy used is stated in watts; the higher the watts, the more energy the bulb uses.
Spend some time figuring out what kind of bulb is best for your application. There are many varieties, some of which you may not even be aware of. For example, GE now has a special soft white reader/task light that is claimed to be ideal for reading, knitting and other close work.
Always read all labels, packaging, and other material that comes with the bulb. All bulbs and all electricity have a potential to be dangerous. For example, one GE halogen bulb I examined has this warning: “A damaged light emits UV radiation, which may cause eye/skin injury.” The same bulb carries another warning: “Unexpected rupture may cause injury, fire or property damage. Do not exceed rated voltage.” Another piece of advice for safety reasons from one manufacturer: “Turn off power before changing bulbs.” If in doubt, call the manufacturer and avoid shocking eventualities.
Keep track of when you install bulbs so you will have an idea of how long they are lasting and how they are performing. I do that by using a Sharpie pen to mark the date of installation and the place of purchase. This is especially important now that these bulbs come with some fairly long-term periods of warranty. (You can sometimes tell when a fluorescent is about to burn out - when the end of the tubing starts turning dark).
CFLs as well as incandescents gradually wear out over time. In other words, their light output (lumens) or brightness diminishes as they get older.
8. Q. What about halogens? Do they have any use in the typical home?
A. Mr. Bailey says they don’t make much sense for home use, but there are some important and specialized applications for business and commercial use. He notes they operate at high temperatures, which makes them a special fire hazard. They are high intensity bulbs that put out more light for the size of the bulb than other alternatives and can produce the desired white light that comes closest to daylight. You can find halogens in bulb form or in the small designs used in torchiere lamps.
9. Q. Is the kind of bulb we use really such a big deal?
A. According to EnergyStar.gov, “if every home in America replaced just one incandescent light bulb with an Energy Star qualified CFL, in one year it would save enough energy to light more than 3 million homes and prevent greenhouse gas emissions equivalent to those of more than 800,000 cars.” According to Phillips, using one of their 23-watt CFLs in place of an equivalent incandescent of 100 watts will save you $77 over the 1,000-hour life of the CFL. That’s at 10 cents per kilowatt-hour. Consumer Reports (October 2007) estimates each CLF will save you $5 a year in electricity costs over a regular bulb, assuming it’s on three hours a day. And lighting accounts for close to 20 percent of the average home’s electrical bill.
One Response to “A Shopper’s Guide To Compact Fluorescent Lights (CFLs)”
I have had several problems with fluorescent bulbs. While articles blithely recommend you replace incandescents with fluorescents, they do not address this sort of problem. Your article above at least talks about the problem that they are not bright enough. But here is my complete list of problems:
1. They are not bright enough–I need 150 watts, and the highest they come in are the equivalent of 100 watts incandescent.
2. They fall apart in your hands! I tried to screw in two different bulbs in two different sockets. They were 100-watt-equivalent bulbs, and the fit was somewhat snug. Both of them fell apart as I was screwing them. I tried returning them to the store where I bought them, Lighting and Beyond, on 14th St. The proprietor refused, saying that I should have been more careful. I said that the box contains no warning that these things are delicate. He still refused.
3. Related to no. 2: the space that they take up is much larger than the space taken up by incandescent bulbs, so they do not fit into the identical space.
4. Lastly: several of my lamps have several of my lamps have shades that are placed directly on the bulb, attached by wires. You can’t attach such a shade to a fluorescent bulb.